Feather Your Nest with the Colors of Fall

by Jeanne Brovelli, Interior Re-designer

La Casa Bella Fine Furnishings

As the nights cool and the gorgeous colors of fall begin to delight our senses, we are naturally inclined to embrace those warm Autumn colors. We do this with our wardrobe and we can also do this in our homes. While we can’t change all of our furnishings with each season, there are some simple things we can do to celebrate the season indoors through décor. Changing out or adding to the pillows on a sofa, adding a different throw, putting out an accent pottery piece or vase, or switching to fall florals are just a few of the things we can do that create a whole new feeling to a room. Putting out fall-toned tablecloths, placemats or runners, changing out towels or throw rugs in the bathroom, strategically placing some fall-colored candles throughout the house and adding some autumn potted flowering plants, like mums, are some other ways to add just the right accent to bring that fall feeling indoors.

This season some of the new trends in colors in fashion include American Beauty, a true red, Burnt Sienna, a deepened earthy shade of orange, Warm Olive, like the martini olive and Honey Yellow. These are a few of the colors we might naturally associate with fall. Combining these with other new trend colors like Purple Heart, Majolica Blue and Iron can create some unique and attractive color combinations.

We all have our own favorite time-tested colors as well. Adding new accent accessories doesn’t always mean we need to get rid of what we already have. Often just the right new color accent combined with what we already have can give a room a whole new look for the season. In addition, using natural materials such as grasses, seed pods and gourds as well as rich metal pieces in bronze, antique gold etc. are a nice way to add some texture, variety, and contrast to fall arrangements.

A note on choosing larger pieces or a new wall color: its important to think about what feeling we want a room to evoke and colors carry their own emotional feeling. Colors also affect how large or small, warm or cool a space will feel. For example warm colors like yellow, orange, and red will make a room feel warmer and the darker tones will make a room appear smaller, whereas the cooler greens and blues will have the opposite effect.

One final thing to consider when “seasoning” your home this fall is furniture placement.

Do you have a stunning fall tree or spectacular view from your home of fall foliage? Consider placing a small table and chair set or other seating by this window so that the scene can be enjoyed often. So do enjoy Autumn once again in this beautiful area of ours and as you do, add a little fall accent to your home!

photo by Jeanne Brovelli

photo by Jeanne Brovelli

photo by Jeanne Brovelli

photo by Jeanne Brovelliphoto by Jeanne Brovelli

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From Matt and Jamie at

SIERRASCAPES Landscape Design

Now that the summer sun begins it slow departure into winter, it is once again time to consider those late summer and fall landscape projects. The following suggestions will hopefully save you a few bucks and some time in preparation for next years landscape season.

If you have been contemplating contacting a Landscape Contractor, now is the best time to do so. During the slower fall months, landscape contractors traditionally have a little more time to devote to meeting new clients and assisting in landscape design. The meeting is also a great way to get ideas and possibly design suggestions for planning your spring landscape projects. You may also want to consider utilizing a landscape contractor during the fall as prices sometimes are reduced as demand slows. So give your local landscaper a call!

Take advantage of the fall sales that nurseries typically have and purchase those trees, shrubs and plants you’ve been thinking of buying all summer season. In addition, fall is also a great time for planting just about anything. Planting now allows the plants to adjust to the soil and other conditions before going dormant. Fall planting also provides for a more established landscape come spring and early summer. So enjoy next summer a little more by planting now!

Prepare your lawn for next season by aerating and fertilizing in the fall. Now is a great time to give your lawn the nutrients it will need to survive the cold months ahead and spring back to a beautiful green once the spring snow thaws. The holes created by aerating allow your grass to receive extra oxygen, fertilizer and water. Also, don’t forget to get those leaves off the lawn during the fall and winter months. A spring lawn trying to grow underneath a blanket of leaves will tend to struggle into the summer months. If you are interested in installing a sod or seed lawn, early fall is a great time to get this done. Just like fall planting, fall lawn installation will give your grass a jumpstart come spring. A little extra time spent on your lawn this fall pays great rewards come next landscape season.

Make sure your irrigation system is properly turned off once the weather becomes consistently ugly and the temperature routinely drops into the 30’s. As a landscape contractor, an unfortunate amount of our spring phone calls are for irrigation systems that froze during the winter and are now creating big spring headaches. Turning off your irrigation clock is the first step, but making sure the water source to your irrigation system is turned off is the most important step. If you are unsure or have questions regarding the proper techniques for successfully turning off your system for the winter, call your local landscape contractor.

Late summer and fall are great times to either start a few late season landscape projects or prepare for a successful spring landscape season. Which ever it may be, get out there and take advantage of the cooler days and better deals that you can get from nurseries and landscape contractors. If anything, take some time and enjoy the fall colors your landscape has to offer and bask in the tranquil beauty of your landscape.

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Hi! Happy August! I am sitting here, in my beautiful office watching out the window and wondering, “When did it get sooo hot???” It seems like it took forever, but here it is! Now, I mention my beautiful office because I spend a LOT of time here and love my office. But, I find myself wishing I had air conditioning, or maybe a ceiling fan? Are you feeling like me? Could you use a ceiling fan in a beautiful, but very warm room? Why don’t we both install one today?

A fan is such a good choice. Not only does it help cool the room, but it is also a great choice to help reduce cooling as well as heating costs. A ceiling fan circulates the air to make room temperatures more comfortable without additional heating or cooling. What a smart AND beautiful choice! Our application today will be to replace an existing fixture with your new ceiling fan.

Tools:
Screwdrivers (various sizes)
Nut driver
Adjustable wrench
Ladder

Materials:
New ceiling fan: follow this rule of thumb when purchasing your new fan. (a) Be sure you have at least 10” clearance between the ceiling and the fan blades. (b) Also important, be sure to have at least 7’ clearance from the fan blades to the floor. (c) Your fan should fit properly in the room for maximum efficiency: purchase a 36 inch fan for a room with 12’ or less, largest room dimension; purchase a 48 inch fan for a room with 12’ to 15’, largest room dimension; purchase a 52 inch fan for a room with 15’ to 18’, largest room dimension.
Ceiling fan balancing kit (after fan installation, it may “wobble” when running. This is not due to an installation problem or manufacturers defect. Follow the directions on the balancing kit and voila, perfection. No more wobble!)
Electrical fixture box w/ adjustable brace or 2×4 block
Wire connectors

Keep these safety tips in mind:
1. ALWAYS SHUT OFF THE BREAKER at the main electrical service panel before working with power.
2. Make sure you test the power to make sure it is OFF, BEFORE you begin the work

This job will be easier with two people and will take approximately 2-3 hours if you are a beginner.

Step 1: Turn off the power at the breaker & test your light switch before doing anything.
Once the power is off, remove the old fixture and electrical box. Typically ceiling fans are too heavy to be supported by an electrical box. If you have access to the box in the attic, use a UL approved ceiling mount box with an adjustable brace instead.

Step 2: From the attic, place the brace between two joists so the bottom of the legs are flush with the bottom of the joists. Hand-tighten the bar by rotating to force the end spikes into the joists. The face of the electrical box must be sitting below the joists. Be sure they are also flush with the finished ceiling fixture. Using your wrench, tighten the brace bar one full rotation. This will anchor the brace tightly against the joists.

If you have chosen to use a 2×4 block, cut it to size & toenail it into the joists. Once it is secure, install your ceiling mount box to the block.

Step 3: Take your existing electrical cable and feed it into the fixture box. Secure with a cable clamp.

Step 4: Now for the ceiling fan kit. Place the fan mounting plate over the bolts which are extending through the hole in the center of the mounting plate. Attach the mounting nuts and tighten them with a nut driver.

Step 5: A mounting hook should have been supplied with your kit. Hang the fan motor from this hook. It is time to wire the fan to the existing electrical wire. Connect the wire leads using your wire connectors. The colors must coordinate with each other: black to black, white to white & the grounding wires to the green lead. Once the wires have been twisted together, use your wire nuts to secure them.

Step 6: Installing the motor cover & fan blades are your next step. When you purchased your ceiling fan, there should be explicit directions on how to complete the remainder of the job.

Your beautiful room is now equipped with a beautiful breeze! Enjoy your fan year-round and remember…..You did it yourself!!!!

Don’t forget to stop by when you are in Portola, or call us at 530-832-5462. We would love to answer any questions, show off our equipment, or just meet you!! If you are thinking of a home project, but you’re not sure how to get started, let me know. You may find help next month, when you are Toolin Around With J!!

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By Eileen Majors

What CAN You Plant Up Here That Will Come Back Each Year?

When I moved to the mountains, I was told we only have two seasons, winter….and July! My folks soon followed us to our new mountain home and my mother, the avid gardener, understood the frustrating truth of it all. A few seasons into it, she began to realize how careful planning was the key to having a beautiful mountain garden. There are loads of plants that will come back blooming each year, and others which are fun to add for seasonal color and that she did. Now with Mom gone, I always notice the gorgeous bloomers she had growing in her garden. I contacted a few local gardeners and nurseries for some of the tricks to having a successful mountain garden. Who knows, in time, perhaps even I could pull this off.

It is hard not to notice the beautiful yard of Julie Brecht in Westwood, located at just above 5,000 foot elevation. She is another one willing to work a little harder to maintain a mountain garden. Every corner of her yard is accented by beautiful perennials that come back each year. She also can’t resist the power of petunias for bringing bright color to the landscape. Each year she plants these fast growing flowers in strategic locations including inside the basket of an old bicycle.

Another avid mountain gardener is Betty Bishop of Chester. She has several plants that return each year and that is a good thing since her entire front yard consists of plants, trees, shrubs and rocks. Her husband Ed Bishop is a stone mason who provides the unique rocks. She said she refuses to mow lawns so she fills her yard with foliage. She also chooses plants that return every year. Her favorites include peonies, Oriental poppies and Bee Balm in a red variety, which she says really attracts hummingbirds. Another great plant according to Bishop, is mock orange bushes. “They produce white flowers and smell just like an orange blossom,” she said.

So, you may ask, where do I start and when? Well, now is as good a time as any according to the local nurseries we contacted. Perennials can be planted throughout the summer season, to return next year. Annuals will add bright color to the landscape for just a season, so plant them as early as you can. Whenever they arrive, there is nothing like a dish garden with petunias to liven up any dreary deck.

We spoke with Jeannie of Cherry’s Garden in Greenville, a nursery offering hardy plants to the area as does Lassen Landscape & Nursery of Chester where we spoke to Gina. They have some great recommendations for choosing plants and how to care for them. Crystal at Lassen True Value in Westwood, where they also sell lots of plants, said lemon thyme is an amazing ground cover with a wonderful aroma. Every gardener had their favorites. Here are a few recommended for our high altitude, with planting tips. Mature plants can be purchased throughout the season and seeding should be done early, indoors at higher elevations.

VIOLAS (JOHNNY JUMP UPS)
These tiny violets spread slowly via stems in the ground, and are known for self-seeding throughout the landscape. This is why they are called “Johnny jump-ups”. Sow seed directly outdoors in early spring or in the fall. Water twice weekly when mature. Plant established plants throughout the summer.

As cool weather annuals, Johnny jump-ups will bloom in the spring, can fade during the heat of summer, and will often return with flowers in the fall. I have even seen these hardy plants blooming amongst snow many time. They make great ground cover and require little care. There are several varieties available in seven different color combinations.

HOSTAS
Hostas come in different varieties and are easy to grow. They prefer shade and are popular for their attractive leaves. They look similar to a houseplant and a low growing variety makes great ground cover, even under trees or on the north side of your home.

Choose a location with light to medium shade. Hostas prefer loose, well drained soil. Add some compost to the soil and mix well. Plant them two to four feet apart. After planting, water well and keep them well watered for a few weeks as they grow new roots.

Once established, Hostas need little care. General purpose fertilizers promote bigger, healthier leaves. But, your plants should do well even without adding fertilizers. Mulching around plants will create a more attractive appearance and help to retain soil moisture. Water them occasionally during periods of drought.

In midsummer, Hostas will produce a long stem, also called a “scape” with a flower at the end. After blooming, the stem and spent bloom can be removed. Leave it on the plant until fully dry to harvest the seed pods.

HOLLYHOCKS
One of mom’s favorites, these flowers can adjust to the worst soil conditions and have even been spotted coming through the pavement or on the edge of a road. Tall growers, hollyhocks do well next to fences and will flower the first year, when started early indoors. More often though, they will bloom the second year. They show tall double blooms in a wide range of colors: white, yellow, crimson, pink, rose, and red.

They have heart shaped leaves and bloom from July to September in most areas. Most hollyhocks are perennials but there are some annual varieties. They like full sun to partial shade. They will grow quickly to a height of four to five feet or more, depending upon the variety you select. Hollyhocks like rich, well drained soil. Water as needed to keep the soil moist at all times. Adding a general purpose fertilizer once a month will result in bigger, fuller blooms. After the growing season is over, Hollyhocks should be cut back to ground level. To assure that the plant doesn’t die out completely, cover the area with mulch, in case of an extra harsh winter.

BLACK EYED SUSAN
Almost everyone knows this American wildflower, and it has lovely color, a daisy shape, and is easy to grow in any sunny place. This plant needs little attention and is great for bouquets. It can be used on a slope, or as part of a meadow planting, too. Black Eyed Susans bring year-after-year cheer. This perennial grows 2-3 ft. tall and likes full sun.

COLUMBINE
Columbine produce large, showy blooms of single and bi-color patterns on airy plants with blue-green foliage from late spring to early summer. Colors include shades of yellow, white, pink, blue, purple and combinations. Columbine are very easy to grow. They grow well in partial shade and well drained soil. They will do well in average soils and tolerate dry soil conditions. Add a general purpose fertilizer once or twice a season. Columbine grows 15-20″, and are good in flowerbeds, containers, as edging, and in rock gardens. Once your Columbine are established, they will grow well and bloom until frost. Being very hardy, they will likely survive the first light frosts before going dormant for the winter. They do not require mulching or protection in the winter.

CLEMATIS
Clematis likes full sun, and moist, fertile, well drained soil. Space plants 24″-36″ apart. The roots are shallow, and should be shaded by growing other flowers around the base of the vine. The use of mulch is not recommended, as Clematis can suffer from wilt and fungus diseases present in decomposing mulch. Keep the soil moist, but not wet. Add an all purpose fertilizer once a month. As a vining plant, Clematis needs something to climb. A trellis, fencing or posts are good options. Clematis will bloom in the spring to early fall.

CHINESE LANTERNS
I have seen these rare beauties growing at the home of Kim Poggi in Westwood. According to experts, Chinese Lantern plants are very easy to grow. They like full sun, but will tolerate a partial or light shade. They do well in average soils, however, rich soils are more productive. Plant seeds indoors 4 – 6 weeks before the last frost in your area. Or, direct seed them after the last frost date. Keep the soil moist, not wet, adding a general purpose fertilizer once a month. Apply a thick layer of mulch around the plants to keep weeds down, and to retain moisture.

Once your Chinese Lantern plants are established, they will grow well with little or no attention for years. After plants have died back in late Fall, it’s okay to cut them back to ground level.
IMPORTANT: The unripe berries and the leaves of Chinese Lantern plants are poisonous.

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By Juliana at J’s Feather River Rentals – Portola CA

Hey everybody! It’s June! We NEVER thought nice weather would get here, but…….it finally did!! Now, I don’t know about you, but I have been watching those golf courses get thicker and greener by the day!!! Haven’t you wondered what those guys do to get that gorgeous carpet of lawn??? Well, I have been asking around and guess what? It isn’t that hard to do and not that expensive either.

How long has it been since you gave your lawn a little TLC? We are going to show you some tricks that your lawn will love!

Tools:
Lawn Comber (dethatcher)
Lawn Aerator
Fertilizer Spreader
Landscape Rake

Materials:
Weed & Feed (look for square footage coverage on bags)
Lawn or Garden bags (optional)

Keep these safety tips in mind:
Be sure to wear long pants
Wear closed shoes
Gloves and safety glasses are always a good idea when working with any outdoor equipment
Always keep your hands and feet away from moving blades & tines, as these parts are sharpened on a regular basis to provide optimum penetration of the lawn & ground

STEP 1: DETHATCHING THE LAWN

Why should I dethatch?
Thatch is a layer of dead stems, roots and clippings that stay between the soil’s surface and the green vegetation. This mat can deprive your lawn of the nutrients it needs to flourish. If your thatch is just ½ inch or more it also prohibits water and air from entering the grass roots. This also can create the perfect medium for insect breeding and disease!

What is dethatching?
Using a dethatcher is a process which will mechanically remove the accumulated thatch in your lawn. The equipment you use may have steel flail blades or rigid wire blades. Either one is designed to slice through the turf, lifting thatch debris to the surface for removal. If your lawn has been grown for many years or is yellowing and lifeless, it may be dying for air, water and nutrients!

Directions:

Before using your lawn comber, be sure your grass and soil is dry. This will ensure the maximum efficiency of the equipment. The dethatcher is a simple, user- friendly machine. Technically it works the same as a lawn mower. With a pull start engine and gas powered, it is easy to use.
Starting in a corner of your yard, you will work your way in rows back and forth. Be sure to overlap your rows slightly for the best coverage. You may need to run the lawn comber more than once over the lawn if it has been longer than a year since you have done this.
Dethatching may cause some minor damage to the turf or browning for a short
period after you use your lawn comber. To speed up the recovery process all
thatch needs to be removed with a hand rake or a lawn vacuum. Do not leave the
debris on the lawn.

STEP 2: AERATING THE LAWN

Why should I aerate?
Soil compaction is a frequent cause of turf deterioration. This is caused by many reasons, usually due to lawn traffic such as walking and mowing. The soil compaction is greatest in the top 2-3” of the soil. When the soil particles are compacted, they are pushed together so tightly that the area where the roots can grow is reduced. Aeration will open up this compacted soil to allow breathing.

What is aerating?
Aeration is the process of mechanically removing cores of turf. This process will relieve compacted soil by improving the exchange of water and those critical nutrients between the air and the roots.

How often should I aerate?
Aeration should be performed at least once annually for optimal effectiveness. The ideal timing for cool-season grasses, (such as perennial ryegrass and Kentucky bluegrass) is in the spring (March through May) and in the fall (August through November).
Warm season grasses, (such as Bermuda grass) will benefit the most from spring or summer aeration.
Lawns that receive regular aeration will be greener, easier to maintain and suffer from fewer pest problems.

Directions:

Before aerating, be sure to water the area the night before. This will help to soften the soil allowing for maximum core penetration. Do not over-water. Ground must not be muddy. If you can easily poke your finger into the soil it is wet enough.
Map out any obstructions, such as irrigation heads or drains. The aerator has sharpened tines which will penetrate up to 3” in depth.
An aerator is also very user friendly. Technically the same as the lawn comber, with pull-rope start and gas powered, it is also self-propelled. You will use this piece of equipment in the same manner as the lawn comber. Starting in a corner of the yard, walk with the aerator in rows back and forth, slightly overlapping the rows. Be sure to cover every inch of the lawn and go over high traffic areas more than once. Small plugs of soil will be left by the aerator and may be left or raked up and thrown into a garden bed.
After aerating, water the lawn thoroughly. You are now ready to feed the lawn!

STEP 3: FEEDING THE LAWN

The last step will provide your lawn with the nutrients that it has been lacking. With the fertilizer you will be promoting growth and will allow grass to compete with weed growth. Using the fertilizer spreader, evenly and thoroughly spread the fertilizer of your choice throughout the lawn area. There are several good manufacturers that provide a healthy supplement for your specific type of lawn. Ask your favorite hardware store or nursery for the correct feed and amount to use!

So, there you go! Not only will your lawn be healthy, lush and drought resistant, but think how healthy YOU will feel after that great exercise and sun!! Enjoy the weather and we will see you in July!!!

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By Juliana at J’s Feather River Rentals – Portola CA

Hey everybody! It’s June! We NEVER thought nice weather would get here, but…….it finally did!! Now, I don’t know about you, but I have been watching those golf courses get thicker and greener by the day!!! Haven’t you wondered what those guys do to get that gorgeous carpet of lawn??? Well, I have been asking around and guess what? It isn’t that hard to do and not that expensive either.

How long has it been since you gave your lawn a little TLC? We are going to show you some tricks that your lawn will love!

Tools:
Lawn Comber (dethatcher)
Lawn Aerator
Fertilizer Spreader
Landscape Rake

Materials:
Weed & Feed (look for square footage coverage on bags)
Lawn or Garden bags (optional)

Keep these safety tips in mind:
Be sure to wear long pants
Wear closed shoes
Gloves and safety glasses are always a good idea when working with any outdoor equipment
Always keep your hands and feet away from moving blades & tines, as these parts are sharpened on a regular basis to provide optimum penetration of the lawn & ground

STEP 1: DETHATCHING THE LAWN

Why should I dethatch?
Thatch is a layer of dead stems, roots and clippings that stay between the soil’s surface and the green vegetation. This mat can deprive your lawn of the nutrients it needs to flourish. If your thatch is just ½ inch or more it also prohibits water and air from entering the grass roots. This also can create the perfect medium for insect breeding and disease!

What is dethatching?
Using a dethatcher is a process which will mechanically remove the accumulated thatch in your lawn. The equipment you use may have steel flail blades or rigid wire blades. Either one is designed to slice through the turf, lifting thatch debris to the surface for removal. If your lawn has been grown for many years or is yellowing and lifeless, it may be dying for air, water and nutrients!

Directions:

Before using your lawn comber, be sure your grass and soil is dry. This will ensure the maximum efficiency of the equipment. The dethatcher is a simple, user- friendly machine. Technically it works the same as a lawn mower. With a pull start engine and gas powered, it is easy to use.
Starting in a corner of your yard, you will work your way in rows back and forth. Be sure to overlap your rows slightly for the best coverage. You may need to run the lawn comber more than once over the lawn if it has been longer than a year since you have done this.
Dethatching may cause some minor damage to the turf or browning for a short
period after you use your lawn comber. To speed up the recovery process all
thatch needs to be removed with a hand rake or a lawn vacuum. Do not leave the
debris on the lawn.

STEP 2: AERATING THE LAWN

Why should I aerate?
Soil compaction is a frequent cause of turf deterioration. This is caused by many reasons, usually due to lawn traffic such as walking and mowing. The soil compaction is greatest in the top 2-3” of the soil. When the soil particles are compacted, they are pushed together so tightly that the area where the roots can grow is reduced. Aeration will open up this compacted soil to allow breathing.

What is aerating?
Aeration is the process of mechanically removing cores of turf. This process will relieve compacted soil by improving the exchange of water and those critical nutrients between the air and the roots.

How often should I aerate?
Aeration should be performed at least once annually for optimal effectiveness. The ideal timing for cool-season grasses, (such as perennial ryegrass and Kentucky bluegrass) is in the spring (March through May) and in the fall (August through November).
Warm season grasses, (such as Bermuda grass) will benefit the most from spring or summer aeration.
Lawns that receive regular aeration will be greener, easier to maintain and suffer from fewer pest problems.

Directions:

Before aerating, be sure to water the area the night before. This will help to soften the soil allowing for maximum core penetration. Do not over-water. Ground must not be muddy. If you can easily poke your finger into the soil it is wet enough.
Map out any obstructions, such as irrigation heads or drains. The aerator has sharpened tines which will penetrate up to 3” in depth.
An aerator is also very user friendly. Technically the same as the lawn comber, with pull-rope start and gas powered, it is also self-propelled. You will use this piece of equipment in the same manner as the lawn comber. Starting in a corner of the yard, walk with the aerator in rows back and forth, slightly overlapping the rows. Be sure to cover every inch of the lawn and go over high traffic areas more than once. Small plugs of soil will be left by the aerator and may be left or raked up and thrown into a garden bed.
After aerating, water the lawn thoroughly. You are now ready to feed the lawn!

STEP 3: FEEDING THE LAWN

The last step will provide your lawn with the nutrients that it has been lacking. With the fertilizer you will be promoting growth and will allow grass to compete with weed growth. Using the fertilizer spreader, evenly and thoroughly spread the fertilizer of your choice throughout the lawn area. There are several good manufacturers that provide a healthy supplement for your specific type of lawn. Ask your favorite hardware store or nursery for the correct feed and amount to use!

So, there you go! Not only will your lawn be healthy, lush and drought resistant, but think how healthy YOU will feel after that great exercise and sun!! Enjoy the weather and we will see you in July!!!

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By Matt and Jamie of SierraScapes
By SierraScapes

As we look for more affordable and creative ways to landscape our outdoor living spaces, we need to consider the very simple and affordable method of container gardening. Container planting can be incorporated in patios, existing planters and even for indoor landscaping. Containers make great accents and can be just as beautiful to look at as the rest of your landscape design elements. The following are a few helpful hints to get you started.

One of the great things about container gardening is the wide variety of items that can be used as containers. Old washtubs, classic watering cans and those old funky clay pots lying around the garage all make great containers. You can also check out your local thrift shop for potential container ideas. Your imagination is your only limitation of what you can use as a great container.

Choosing plants for your containers needs some careful consideration. Make sure that all the plants in the pot have similar needs. Don’t mix drought tolerant plants with thirsty plants or plants that require different amounts of sunlight. Try mixing your favorite perennials, annuals and small shrubs for a perfect pot. My favorite container has all the makings for a great salsa, including tomatoes, peppers and cilantro.

The key to success for container planting are good watering practices. You will need to water your plants occasionally, making sure you allow for proper drainage. The easiest way to ruin your container is for your plants to sit in a saturated container.

Making use of a container garden is a great way to save time and money in your landscaping projects. It is a creative way to display you plants in small spaced areas or add creative accents to your existing landscape and home. Now get started and create a beautiful container for your outdoor living space today.

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Pick a room with tired looking carpet or vinyl now over cement. Choose a patio with no style or color. You can give it a beautiful face lift!!! It will be fun and exciting….and YES, it’s a big job but if you’re ready, so am I! Toolin’ Around will be an ongoing column in Mountain Valley Living. If you have projects you would like to know more about, please call me at (530)832-5462 or contact Eileen at Mountain Valley Living. There isn’t really much we can’t do together!!!

This project is a five step process. It doesn’t require a lot of technique or knowledge. You can achieve stunning results with a little bit of creativity!!! The more variation in the slab appearance, the more realistic it will appear. Cracks in your slab will create a beautiful marble effect. Pitted or marked slabs will give the effect of granite! You can also create a faux tile appearance by scoring your concrete into squares before the staining process! The decision is all yours!

We will be working on your slab as a remodel project. It may be a room or a patio with existing vinyl or carpet. I will take you through the process one step at a time. The tools you need will be listed, as well as suggestions on the proper materials. The artistry is up to you!!!!

Tools:

• Electric Floor Stripper (for carpet or vinyl/linoleum)

• Cat’s Paw (to pry up tack strip if removing carpet)

• Dremmel Tool (to grind down nails if tack strip is removed)

• Electric floor scrubber (for final clean of slab before the stain application and for application of final wax coat)

• All plastic (insecticide) pump-up sprayer. NO metal parts.

• Wet/dry vacuum

Safety gear: (Semi-transparent stain contains acid—be aware of exposure and adhere to safety on bottles of stain)

Safety gloves

Rubber gloves

Rubber apron

Respirator

Materials:

• Water borne stripper, i.e. citrus product, lacquer thinner or mineral spirits. Do not acid wash or use heavy alkali cleaners on surface.

• Portland Cementitious Material for patching holes (if tack strip was removed) Do not use

synthetic patch—as acid stain will not produce color on synthetic material)

• Box of TSP cleaner

• Blue Painters tape & drywall paper

• Appropriate amount per your square footage of semi-transparent stain in

color of your choice. Colors can be mixed in layers to achieve a more realistic

look. (Kemiko Concrete Stain is a great choice & comes in a variety of colors)

• Wax or sealer (Also Kemiko Product)

Directions:

Step 1 REMOVAL OF OLD & CLEANUP First remove any existing flooring with the scraper. Keep scraper at an even height in order not to scratch the concrete. This tool is designed to peel up the existing floor and hopefully most of the adhesive.

Once the flooring has been removed you must be sure that the slab is totally free of all adhesive and contaminants. If not, you will not achieve an even color. Using the cleaner of your choice from our list above, follow the all directions on the product. If in doubt re-clean slab; it is better to over-clean than to leave residue.

Should you be working with carpet, and you have a tack strip, take your time lifting the strip up with the cat’s paw. Try not to leave holes where the nails were. If some of the nails did not pull out of the floor, use the dremmel tool (a hand held rotary type cutter). Nail holes may occur. At this time you can fill them in with the Portland Cement Patch. Follow the exact directions on the container and be sure product is dried to their specification. Follow the clean up process above.

Step 2 PROTECT THE AREA Be prepared to safeguard your walls, doors and baseboard, as the stain will spray onto those areas, as well. Using blue painters tape and drywall paper to cover any areas connected to the slab will ensure a simpler clean up. After cleaning the floor, ALLOW IT TO DRY THOROUGHLY.

Step 3 APPLYING THE STAIN Mix stain with water @ 50%-50% ratio in pump sprayer (add water first, then stain). Pump up the pressure and begin randomly spraying the mixture on the floor. Hold the nozzle of the wand approximately 18 inches from the floor. Avoid precise back & forth motions. Apply the mixture leaving it “wet, but without puddles”. The water volume left on the floor will equal the depth of the color. You want as even a color as you can get. In applying the stain, there will be fizzing in varying degrees, and it may not look like a lot of color. This is typical. Once the stain has been applied to entire floor, let it dry completely. Dry time may take several hours, depending on the temperature, humidity, porosity and volume of stain on the slab. DO NOT WALK ON THE FLOOR WHILE IT IS WET OR DAMP. Do not remove the residue that is left from the chemical reaction. (Note: there are so many ways to apply the stain, just think about the look you want. Practice on an old sheet of drywall or wood. You can apply with sponges, mops or rags. Should you want the tile look, please call me for more details!)

When dried thoroughly, use the same procedure as above, applying the second application. Again allow it to dry thoroughly. There will be darker tones of color appearing at this time.

Step 4 CLEAN EXCESS RESIDUE After the floor has completely dried, scrub off the residue using a long handled medium, stiff bristle brush, or a slow speed floor machine with a scrub brush. Use water only. Remove the water/residue mixture with a wet dry vacuum. Be sure to clean floor residue thoroughly. Try this simple test: Wipe the floor with a white towel. If color is seen on towel, clean again. ALLOW TO DRY COMPLETELY.

Step 5 APPLYING THE SHINE It is time to put a shine on that floor! There are two applications you may use.

#1 Wax – best applied with a heavy floor polishing machine and 3 attachments: a stiff natural brush for application, a medium bristle brush and a buffing pad. Kemiko makes a great wax to use with their semi transparent stain. The directions for application are explicit on the bottle.

#2 Sealer – The sealer is a simpler application. Kemiko manufactures this as well. It is applied with an airless sprayer. You should be prepared to apply 2 coats of sealer. Should your slab be very porous, it may require more coats. Stone Tone Sealer will dry in 2-3 hours. Follow directions on the bottle.

The results you will receive from this project are amazing!!! Your floor will be easily maintained, economical & elegant!!! Maintenance is simple. Occasional waxing is required, dependent upon the use of the room and the amount of traffic.

If you like the idea but would like help, choose a qualified contractor and get started. Enjoy your floor and I look forward to next months’ column!!! See you then.

Juliana

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By Juliana at J’s Feather River Rentals

Welcome back!
Warmer weather is almost here and soon we will be outside enjoying it. There will be patio get-togethers & deck barbeques! Mmmm, makes me hungry thinking about it!!!
But, how are those decks looking after the harsh winter? Do they need a little pick me up? What about your interior wood floors? Maybe they could use refinishing? Well, if this is something you have been considering, this months’ column is just for you. The application we will be working with is for old wood floors, with a lot of old finish or cupping planks. Newer floors require a slightly different refinish process. So let’s get started.

Tools:
*Drum Floor Sander or Orbital Sander (the orbital floor sander is more user friendly. When using the drum sander, it must keep moving, even after it has been turned off until the drum stops moving or it will create valleys in your wood).
*Edger Disc Sander (this sander is designed to sand against the walls, in hard to reach areas or under railings.)
*Rotary Floor Buffer/Maintainer
*Vacuum
*Sandpaper (fine, medium, coarse)
*Grade 120 Mesh Screen Disc with Pad
*Hammer and Nail Set
*Pry Bar or Wooden wedge
*Hand Scraper
*Finish Nails
*Carpenters Wood Glue
*Wood putty (in the a color as close to your original wood floor as possible)

Safety Gear:
*Dust Mask
*Safety Glasses
*Ear Plugs

Materials:
*Towels or rags
*Container for sander dust
*Drop cloth or plastic sheeting/blue painters tape
*White soled shoes

Keep these safety tips in mind:
*Sanding dust is extremely combustible
* Do not smoke or have open flames present during the refinishing process or applying lacquer)
*Empty the sander dust bags often into a container. Do not keep the container on job site as this could be a possible fire hazard.
*DO NOT EVER mix discarded stain or finish rags with waste sawdust. Spontaneous combustion may occur.
*UNPLUG sander when you are not using it AND MORE IMPORTANTLY, WHEN CHANGING PAPER.

Hints to make the job easier:
*Check the fuse supply, as machine may overload circuit.
*Remove all furniture, rugs, curtains, pictures and any other items which are conveniently moved to avoid any interruptions or accidents.
*If you will be painting or installing wall covering, be sure you have completed prior to refinishing.
*If your room has a large doorway or access to other rooms, cover it with a drop cloth or plastic covering. You can stuff towels under the bottoms of exit or closet doors. Cover all air vents tightly. Sanding dust is incredibly fine and will blow into other areas easily.
*NEVER stop the sander with the drum in contact with the floor, always keep it moving until drum stops, or keep it raised off the floor.
*Wear clean, soft footwear to avoid dirt marks, sole marks or scratching of the newly sanded floor.
*If you have never used these two pieces of equipment before, you may want to practice with them first. Just to get the feel of the movement of the equipment and the strength needed to use them properly. Try them WITHOUT sandpaper on a sheet of plywood or a similar surface.

Directions:

PREPARE THE FLOOR
*To achieve a professional touch, remove the quarter round moulding and/or baseboards. Use the pry bar, but to prevent damage to the wallboard, place a small wooden wedge between the pry bar and the wall.
*Should you notice loose boards replace or repair by gluing and/or nailing with the finish nails.
*Be sure to counter sink the finish nails with the nail set.
*Sweep thoroughly, especially at walls and edges of exposed wood floor. Vacuum well.

OLD FLOORS (An old floor would have generous amounts of old finish to be removed, and/or uneven floor contours to be corrected.)
Step 1: FIRST SANDING: Use coarse abrasive sandpaper, 20grit. Install sandpaper per machine manufacturer’s instructions.
Divide the room into thirds. Place the sander next to a wall facing the same direction of the wood grain with two-thirds of the floor in front of you. Start the machine and slowly ease the drum to the floor while walking slowly at an even pace. As you near the back wall, gradually raise the drum. Begin pulling the machine backwards as you ease the drum to the floor. Cover the same path previously sanded. Raise the drum upon completion of this pass. Sand the entire floor area in the same direction, overlapping approximately four inches on each new cut until you finish. Move the sander into position so that this operation can be repeated in the opposite direction for the remaining one-third of the room.
If your floor is severely cupped or curled you need to sand this area first. Sand this first cup at a 45 degree angle to the direction of the wood grain (see diagram). Otherwise, always sand with the direction of the wood grain.
Keep an eye on your sanding rate. If you should notice the sanding rate is dropping, your sanding sheet is probably clogged or possibly worn out. Stop sanding, turn off machine but keep it either raised off the floor or keep it moving until it comes to a complete stop! You must change the sanding sheet as soon as you notice this, failure to do so at this time will eventually lead to burn marks and damage to your floor.
After you have completed sanding the body of the floor you are ready to sand the edges. Using the edger sander, sand near the walls and in those areas where the drum sander won’t reach. Be sure to use the same paper grit you used on the field to retain consistency. Move your edger in a quick left to right, semi-circular motion until you have hit all edges and corners.
DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE ALL THE OLD FINISH during this first sanding. Residual finish will be removed during the next steps. After completion of the edger, vacuum the floor thoroughly.

STEP 2: Continue the sanding directions as you did on your first step. Change to a medium abrasive 36-grit on your second sanding.
If you notice any exposed cracks apply wood putty. Use a color as close to your original wood (whether pine, redwood, etc) as possible. Allow to dry before going any further.

Step 3: Continue using the sanding directions as you did on your first step. Change to a fine abrasive 80 grit.

FINAL PREPARATION
STEP 3: Screening the floor will insure protection and appearance. If your floor has a “furry” appearance, this will remove it. Use a white nylon pad attached under a 120 grit sanding screen. Slowly lower the floor buffer. Keeping the buffer balanced, sand the entire area in the direction of the wood grain. Overlap your passes by four inches as you work your way to the wall behind you. Remove the screen and shake out the sawdust as it becomes clogged. (Be sure to shake sawdust into your container).
Hand scrape and fine sand areas that the power sander was not able to reach. When you have finished this step, vacuum the entire room thoroughly (especially around windows, sills, doors and door frames). At this time inspect your floor. Be thorough and picky. Now is the time to insist on perfection!!!! Hand sand any swirl marks or imperfections that remain!
You are ready for your new floor finish!! Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations and guidelines for applying your floor finish!

Enjoy your new floor! Be sure to tell everyone “I DID IT MYSELF!” The satisfaction you must be feeling right now might make you feel smug, but go ahead…..you deserve it!!!

See you next month!!!

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High Altiude Gardnening – When to Plant

Tips from Chuck Majors, Organic Produce Grower

Former Resident, Lassen County

When we called Chuck Majors to see when to get those veggies planted, as usual, he had a lot of great information for us. Chuck commercially distributes his own Siccora’s Salsa and grows organic produce to sell at Lake County farmers markets. He gardened in Lassen County when he lived in Westwood and has some tips for high altitude gardeners. He said Lassen County is considered Temperant Zone 1.

MARCH 15

For those of you wanting to start your garden from seed, you can start indoors with peppers and tomatoes. It will take about 10 days for the plant to come up and quite some time before leaves appear. When it is time to plant outside, tomatoes should be 12 to 18 inches tall and peppers should be 8 to 12 inches tall. Planting time in Zone 1 can take place around May 15 to 20, if the weather is warm. In this zone, threat of frost can occur virtually anytime. An eye on the weather will let you know when to cover your sensitive outdoor plants such as peppers and tomatoes. You can cover them in the evening with plastic, cloth, cardboard boxes or plastic containers placed upside down, to protect them, when frost is forecast.

In this zone, for tomatoes, he recommends the following varieties: Olie Girl, Rutder’s Pearson and Oregon Spring. He says these early growers have a short season.

Also around March 15, if you are planting them from seeds, you can start what Majors calls winter crops of beets, lettuce, broccoli and cauliflower.

APRIL 15

Chuck says by April 15, growers can start thinking about starting their cucumbers, melons and squash seed indoors. He highly recommends the lemon cucumbers and the Armenian cucumbers as they never get bitter. These will need about 30 days of good growing time indoors. After danger of frost, these can be planted outside, usually around May 15 to May 20, if it is warm.

PLANTING AND CARE

He recommends starting seeds in plug trays but emphasised the importance of transplanting them into larger containers as they grow. He says you will know when because the plants begin to get root bound and they will need more water.

Keep starter plants indoors where it stays fairly warm and where the plants will receive good morning sun through windows. Sometimes in zone 1, growers may wish to buy more established plants in some cases like bell peppers. Bells take approximately 75 days to produce after planting outside.

Cucumbers generally produce about 60 days after planting outside and squash, a high yield vegetable, produces in about 40 to 50 days.

Not only is it fun to get the family involved in gardening, it is pretty rewarding reaping that harvest. I will never forget my first trips to Chuck’s home. I was young and impressed as he led me through the garden to ‘pick ‘ the salad. Happy Gardening!

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Building and Deisign – March 09

Almanor Lakefront Home Transformed

Home decor has long been one of my favorite subjects since my mom used to drag me to drag me around to model homes when I was small, gathering ideas for her next home project. I was excited when I was recently contacted by local contractor Sean Gunn of almanor Custome Homes who had seen my ad seeking photos and details on great remodeling projects.
He invited me to the home of Lysle and Suzi Winchester at Lake Almanor who own and operate Almanor Insurance Services. Gunn has been turning their lake front jewel into the ‘pin and post’ design they have long dreamed of. Lysle showed me the cover of a magazine which showed the exact home they had intended to build. Instead, they have hired Sean Gunn of Lake Almanor to transform their existing home.
Overhanging flourescent lights were removed and Gunn designed a new kitchen ceiling to add height. A wall was removed along with a closet to add a comfortable office for Lysle. Making the most of the space, was an important factor in the remodeling design. Gunn was able to add on to the existing top floor which houses a pool table and shuffelboard, to make 2 bedrooms, using unused space above the garage. A door on each end of the game room leads to each its own bedroom for guests, namely grandchildren, the Winchesters told me.
It’s no wonder they opted to STAY in this lovely lakefront location where the views extended across the lake to the west shore and beyond. They seem to be having a great time on this project. Lysle told me it has been a colaberation of ideas from the three of them to pull together the look they wanted. It is a work in progress I noticed as the three discussed a list of ideas to work on next.
They used a line up of local professionals for their ideas including the innovative glass enclosure leading to the front door. In the summer time, panes of glass are replaced with screens. This was the first of its kind handcrafted by Doug DeFabrizio of Lake Almanor who offers custom work in many applications. The incredible lodgepole pine staircase houses 5/8″ tempered glass, to preserve those magnificent views from the upstairs too. It was crafted by Sean Prior of Almanor Log Works.
Two hammered copper sinks sit side by side, one for the bar and one for the coffee. They pointed out their unique push button garbage disposal, giving credit to M Class Plumbing of Chester. The copper button sits neatly on the faucet base. Beautiful hickory kitchen floors from Maple Leaf Flooring just installed, awaited their finish as I hurried to take photos for our next edition.
Energy saving features include their new instant hot water system. They said they pay less for hot water now because they only heat what is needed. They added that they have never run short even with multiple showers and the dishwasher going.
It was a pleasure to meet the Winchesters and look into this beautiful home. Sean Gunn, General Contractor owns and operates Almanor Custom Homes.

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Contributed by Matt and Jamie,

SierraScapes

Fall Landscaping Tips

As the temperature drops outside and the leaves begin to change color, it’s easy to forget that fall is really the best season to lay the groundwork for next year’s landscapes. Here are some tips for what you can do to keep your landscaping looking its best during the fall season and to ensure a spectacular spring landscape:

Lawn

Continue to mow and apply weed control. The more you control weeds now, the fewer you will have in the spring. Now is also a good time to aerate your lawn. This will boost water penetration and reduce water runoff. After you have aerated, you should apply a winter fertilizer. You may want to consider over-seeding you lawn and adding a little topsoil. You will lose approximately 10% of your lawn every year without even knowing it and it is important to replace this loss with new grass.

Trees & Shrubs

Pruning trees should be completed in late fall or winter. You need to make sure they are dormant before you begin to prune. Shrubs should be trimmed to reduce snow damage and encourage new growth in the spring. Perennials should be allowed to completely die back before cutting. This allows the plant to store energy in its roots which will be needed to establish a good spring growth. Fertilize both your trees and shrubs. This will help with root development as well as overall health.

Irrigation

Winterize you irrigation systems as soon as we begin to have consistent overnight frost. It is important to have your system drained of water and your backflow preventer turned off. Many newer systems have self draining valves which eliminates the need to manually drain the system. You should also turn off your irrigation clock/timer at this time. If you are unsure of what your system needs to be fully winterized, contact your local landscape professional.

Autumn is a great time to take a look at your landscape and decide what improvements need to be made for next season. Devising a landscape plan now for next season will allow you to hit the ground running in the spring. If you are a looking for a little help with your spring projects, fall and winter are great times to get on a landscapers schedule for the spring. SierraScapes has enjoyed the season at the lake and look forward to introducing “Maintaining Green” to Chico this winter. Have a great winter season!

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