By Melissa Wynn
I was recently reminded, by a cool delta breeze on a cloudless July afternoon, how fortunate I am to call this Mountain Valley my home. 
The outdoor thermostat read 77 degrees and we couldn’t find a single reason to do anything but savor every moment of that perfect Sierra summer day. Evening found us on the causeway just outside Chester, CA watching ducks and pelicans glide through the water as the sunset changed Lake Almanor from crystal blue to sparkling gold. I felt truly blessed and all seemed right in the world. The birds decided to call it a day and we decided to go into Chester and have a late dinner at the new Red Onion Grill. That turned out to be a decadent ending to a delicious day.
We were welcomed to the Red Onion Grill by cheerful owner Filip Laboda and seated at a candlelit table next to a glowing fireplace. The soothing atmosphere was enhanced by flickering candles that danced in the wall lanterns surrounding the room. The beautifully polished antique bar was made in 1892 and there is an interesting tale of its travels posted on the wall. This elegantly cozy yet casual little dinner house is located at 384 Main Street in downtown Chester and is open from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m., seven days a week.
We began our delightful meal with the Red Onion Appetizer Sampler for Two ($12.95) which included golden calamari fritti (very tender), beer battered onion rings, deep fried baby bella mushrooms and the signature sprigs of sweet battered red onions. A divine lemon-lime roasted garlic aioli left the ranch dipping sauce untouched and lonely when our sunny and efficient server Sharon Booth took the empty platter away. She soon returned with fresh organic salads, one topped with balsamic vinegar and olive oil, the other with the house’s rich and creamy Gorgonzola dressing and a basket of warm, fresh baked, herbed foccacia bread. MMMMM! I was nearly full before my main course, of sinfully tasty Gorgonzola Chicken served with tender grilled summer veggies and the Sun Dried Tomato, Artichoke Penne Pasta of the Day ($18.95), arrived. All entrees come with your choice of house baked polenta, roasted red potatoes, french fries or the pasta of the day. My pasta choice was perfect since the dreamy Gorgonzola sauce on my chicken was also flavored with artichokes. I ended up taking half home for tomorrow’s lunch.
My companion enjoyed a thick, juicy, cajun spiced Filet Mignon which was offered at $28.95. It was served with a tantalizing and flavorful cognac-peppercorn sauce that had him closing his eyes and relishing every bite. We are lemonade and coffee kind of people but Red Onion Grill offers a wide variety of west coast wines including several local choices from Lassen Peak Winery in nearby Shingletown, Ca as well as Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and other local micro-brews on tap.
At our neighboring table, we met Linda Temple, Norm and Linda Stuart and Doug and Shirley Ralston. This friendly bunch escapes the fast paced life of the Bay Area, where they are spread about, to take it easy up here, reminisce and reunite for a bit of toned down”Mountain Valley Living” on an annual basis. The Stuarts are 5 year visitors to Bidwell House Bed and Breakfast in Chester which is also managed by Red Onion Grill owners Filip Laboda and his lovely wife Eva. Already familiar with top-notch Laboda hospitality, the Stuarts planned their visit to attend the grand opening of Red Onion Grill. It’s not a wonder, Filip, Eva and their wonderful staff anticipated and accommodated our every need of the moment. I guess the Stuart’s little secret is out. The entire evening was great fun and my compliments to Chefs Clark Tomlinsom and Steve Hatridge for an incredible meal. Chef’s picks are marked in the unique menu by little onions and I intend to return again and again until I have tried them all. With so many steak, chicken, seafood, salad, pasta and dessert choices it may take several visits. Join us for dinner at Red Onion Grill. Your taste buds will be greatly rewarded.
